Cook the meats with the soffritto and wine before grinding them finely. This version uses two egg-and-crumb coatings: cover each olive evenly so the filling stays enclosed during frying.
Make ahead Prepare the filling and shaped olives ahead, keeping them covered in the refrigerator. Bread and fry them for serving.
Olive all’Ascolana
Prep 1 hr 30 min · Cook 1 hr · Serves 6 · Difficulty Hard
Method
Brown the three meats in olive oil with the soffritto, add the wine, and braise gently until tender and the pan is nearly dry, about 40 minutes.
45 min
Grind the contents of the pan twice, until fine. Beat in one egg, the Parmigiano, lemon zest, nutmeg, and salt. Chill 30 minutes; the filling should mold like marzipan.
35 min
Rinse the olives of brine and pat dry. With a small sharp knife, cut around each pit in one continuous spiral, peeling the flesh off like an apple peel to remove the pit while keeping one long ribbon of olive (the traditional ricciolo cut).
15 min
Roll filling into little torpedoes and wrap the spiral of olive flesh back around each one, reshaping it into a plump olive.
25 min
Bread twice: flour, beaten egg, breadcrumbs, then egg and crumbs again for a shell that survives the fryer.
20 min
Fry in 170 C oil in small batches until deep gold, about 2 minutes. Drain on paper.
12 min
Salt lightly and serve while the coating is crisp. Allow the filling to cool enough to eat comfortably.
Kitchen notes
The double coat is armor. For this version, use a second egg-and-crumb coating to cover any gaps in the first.
Grind fine, then finer. Coarse filling pushes the olive open and falls out at the bite. Pass the meat twice through the fine plate, or pulse patiently.
Serve these olives as an antipasto while the coating is still crisp. A few leaves of salad make a fresh accompaniment.
