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Tiella Barese

Bari’s layered bake of rice, potatoes, and mussels: raw layers, mussel water, and an oven doing all the work. Its resemblance to paella is often put down to centuries of Spanish rule in Puglia, though no one can prove the link.

Opening the mussels raw is the choice that makes this tiella: they cook once, in the oven, and their strained water becomes the liquid the rice drinks. Rice scattered raw among the shells, potatoes above, and water brought just to the top layer give you a bronzed crust with separate grains beneath. Then let it rest; it is better warm than hot.

Make ahead Bake it an hour or two before the meal: it is meant to settle at room temperature, so the wait only helps.

Prep
50 min
Cook
1 hr 10 min
Rest
20 min
Serves
6
Difficulty
Medium

Tiella Barese

Prep 50 min · Cook 1 hr 10 min · Rest 20 min · Serves 6 · Difficulty Medium

Method

  1. Open the raw mussels over a bowl with a short knife, keeping the meat on one half shell and every drop of water. Strain the water through fine cloth.

    30 min

  2. Oil the tiella (or a deep round dish). Layer the onion, half the tomatoes, garlic, parsley, a third of the potatoes; season lightly.

    8 min

  3. Arrange the mussels on their shells face up in one proud layer. Rain the rice into every gap and over the shells.

    8 min

  4. Cover with the remaining potatoes in overlapping slats, the rest of the tomatoes, pecorino, breadcrumbs, pepper, and the rest of the oil.

    8 min

  5. Pour the strained mussel water plus enough plain water down the side to just reach the top layer without flooding it.

    3 min

  6. Bake at 200 C until the top is bronzed and the rice tender when probed at the center, 60 to 70 minutes; tent with foil if the crust races ahead.

    1 hr 10 min

  7. Rest 20 minutes. Serve warm, or at room temperature as Bari prefers, digging to the bottom with every spoonful.

Kitchen notes

Raw mussels, real liquor. This version opens the mussels raw and saves their liquor for the rice. Work carefully with a suitable shellfish knife, or ask your fishmonger to open them.

Water to the brim, not over. The rice drinks what you give it. Flood the dish and the bottom turns porridge; the level should kiss the top layer and no more.

For this recipe, keep the listed layers and check that the rice is tender before taking the tiella out of the oven.

The story behind Tiella Barese

Tiella barese brings rice, potatoes and mussels together in an oven-baked dish. The University of Bari’s Puglian PAT atlas also lists onion, tomato, pecorino, parsley, garlic and olive oil. Its documented preparation layers the ingredients before baking, and it can be served warm.

A round pan of browned rice, potatoes and mussels with a portion removed.

Puglia

Riso, patate e cozze belongs to the seafaring kitchen of Bari, as much at home at a family Sunday lunch as at a holiday dinner with guests. It comes out of the oven and settles at room temperature before anyone digs in.

The Puglia guide

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