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Strangozzi al Tartufo Nero

Spoleto’s eggless ribbons under Norcia’s black truffle: pounded warm with oil and garlic, never cooked, only persuaded.

The truffle never cooks: it goes into oil barely warmed with a garlic clove, off the heat, and a ladle of pasta water turns it into an emulsion that coats every ribbon. That restraint is the whole recipe, and the eggless flour-and-water dough gives the firm, wheaty chew that holds up to it. Keep a quarter of the truffle back for shaving at the table.

Make ahead You can roll and cut the strangozzi a few hours ahead and leave them loosely nested on a floured tray until the water boils.

Prep
45 min
Cook
12 min
Rest
30 min
Serves
4
Difficulty
Medium

Strangozzi al Tartufo Nero

Prep 45 min · Cook 12 min · Rest 30 min · Serves 4 · Difficulty Medium

Method

  1. Knead the flour with a pinch of salt and about 200 ml warm water into a firm dough; rest 30 minutes.

    40 min

  2. Roll to 2 mm and cut into long ribbons just narrower than tagliatelle. Dust with flour and nest loosely.

    20 min

  3. Grate or finely chop three quarters of the truffle; slice the rest into shavings for the top.

    6 min

  4. Warm the oil with the crushed garlic over the lowest heat until the clove turns ivory and the kitchen smells expensive; remove the garlic.

    6 min

  5. Off the heat, stir the grated truffle into the oil with a small pinch of salt. It must scent, not fry.

    2 min

  6. Boil the strangozzi in well-salted water until al dente with a wheaty chew, 4 to 5 minutes.

    5 min

  7. Drag the pasta into the pan with a ladle of cooking water and toss off the heat until a glossy truffle emulsion clings to every ribbon.

    2 min

  8. Plate, crown with the reserved shavings, and serve before the perfume gets away.

Kitchen notes

Buy weight, not bottles. Truffle oil from a shelf is perfume from a lab. Forty grams of real winter truffle beats any bottle, and this dish is exactly where to spend it.

Warm, never cook. If the oil ever sizzles after the truffle goes in, the dish has already lost half its voice. Keep it at hand-warmth.

Out of season, the same pasta carries a sauce of mushrooms and a spoonful of preserved truffle paste honorably; call it what it is and enjoy it.

Umbria

Strangozzi are the flour-and-water pasta of Spoleto and Foligno, and black truffle from Norcia is one of their classic dressings. The prized black truffle is a winter find, and in late February Norcia fills its piazzas with Nero Norcia, the fair devoted to it.

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