This is the in bianco version, white wine and broth with no tomato, and it lets the gremolada do the talking. The one choice that matters is the gentlest simmer for nearly two hours: at a boil the shanks turn stringy, at a whisper the marrow softens and the sauce turns glossy.
Make ahead The braise can be made a day ahead and reheated gently in its sauce; chop the gremolada fresh just before serving.
Ossobuco alla Milanese
Prep 25 min · Cook 2 hr · Serves 4 · Difficulty Medium
Method
Nick the membrane around each shank in three places so they stay flat, season, and dust lightly with flour.
10 min
Brown the shanks in half the butter in a wide heavy casserole, 4 minutes a side, and set aside.
10 min
Lower the heat, add the remaining butter, and soften the onion, carrot, and celery with a pinch of salt until sweet, about 10 minutes.
10 min
Return the shanks, pour in the wine, and let it bubble down by half.
5 min
Add hot broth to come two thirds up the meat. Cover with the lid ajar and braise at the gentlest simmer, turning once, until a fork twists freely in the meat, about 1 hour 45 minutes. Top up with broth if the sauce tightens too far.
1 hr 45 min
Mix the gremolada: lemon zest, parsley, and garlic, chopped together at the last minute.
4 min
Scatter the gremolada over the shanks, shake the pot, and give it 3 final minutes, uncovered, for the perfume to wake the sauce.
3 min
Serve each shank over saffron risotto or soft polenta, sauce spooned around, marrow spoon on the plate.
Kitchen notes
This version in bianco. This version uses white wine and broth without tomato, letting the gremolada give the sauce its fresh finish.
Gentle fire, patient lid. A braise that boils turns shanks stringy. Bubbles should rise like a question, one or two at a time.
The marrow is the cook’s fee: pried out with a special long thin spoon Milanese cooks nickname l’esattore, "the tax collector," because it leaves none behind. Eaten on a crust of bread with a pinch of salt.
