Coarse cornmeal cooked a full 45 minutes, with a little milk in the water for softness, then Fontina folded in off the heat with as few strokes as possible, so it melts into long ribbons instead of turning greasy. Browned butter poured over just before serving is the finish that makes it concia.
Polenta Concia
Prep 10 min · Cook 55 min · Serves 6 · Difficulty Easy
Method
Bring 1.4 liters of water plus the milk to a boil in a heavy pot with the salt.
8 min
Rain in the cornmeal, whisking constantly so no lumps form. When it returns to a blip-blip simmer, switch to a wooden spoon.
4 min
Cook at the laziest simmer for 45 minutes, stirring every few minutes and scraping the bottom. The polenta is ready when it pulls cleanly off the sides of the pot.
45 min
Off the heat, fold in the Fontina cubes a handful at a time, beating until the cheese melts into long elastic ribbons.
4 min
In a small pan, cook the butter until its foam subsides and it smells toasted, the color of dark honey.
4 min
Mound the polenta into warm bowls, pour the sizzling butter over, and serve at once, pepper on the table.
Kitchen notes
Coarse meal, long simmer. Allow about 45 minutes for this coarse cornmeal, then check that it is tender rather than grainy; follow the pack’s guidance if it calls for longer.
Fold, do not stir to death. Once the Fontina goes in, fewer strokes are better. Overworking breaks the strings that make concia concia.
Use Fontina for this version, cutting it into small cubes so it melts evenly into the hot polenta.
