The first and greatest of Italy’s sacred mountains rebuilt Jerusalem on a wooded hill above Varallo, starting in 1491 under the Franciscan friar Bernardino Caimi, who had just returned from the Holy Land and wanted pilgrims who could not make the journey to experience it anyway.
Forty-five chapels, built up over two centuries, each frame a scene from Christ’s life with painted walls and life-size terracotta figures, more than eight hundred in all. Gaudenzio Ferrari, working here between 1507 and 1528, fused fresco and sculpture so completely that his crowds seem to spill from the walls into the visitor’s own space, an illusion two centuries ahead of anything in theater. The Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy, nine sites in all, became a UNESCO World Heritage listing in 2003, and Varallo is where the idea began.





