Saepinum, in the Molise countryside, is the Roman provincial town that no one bothered to demolish. Its walls, forum, basilica and city gates stand among working fields at the foot of the Matese mountains, where a sheep track, or tratturo, still crosses the ancient grid.
Inside the walls you can follow the cardo and decumanus, walk under the arch of the Porta Bojano and see the theatre, whose curve was long ago colonised by farmhouses that still stand in its shell. The Museum of the City and Territory occupies farm buildings raised over the theatre's structures and explains daily life here. It is a quiet, uncrowded place where Roman streets are still lined with grass and wheat.
